Questions, Frequently Asked:
1. What kind of steel do you use, and why?
2. What are the benefits of blade coatings?
3. What are the characteristics of a superior knife?
4. In your opinion, what defines a "Tactical" knife?
5. How do you heat treat your blades?
6. Are your knives guaranteed?
7. What is your personal philosophy
about Knifemaking?
8. How should I sharpen my RJ Martin Knife?
9. Should I lubricate my RJ Martin folding knife?
10. What does the “RJ” in
RJ Martin stand for?
What kind of steel do you use, and why ?
Steel is what gives a fine knife it’s potential. Potential
that is realized only through proper heat treatment. I am thankful
that recent new technologies provide alloys that were unthinkable
just a few years ago. Here are some of my thoughts on steels
I use, and steels I don’t use:
- CPMS30V-This steel is
the finest martensitic stainless steel in the world today.
Developed by Crucible Materials Corporation,
and made using their proprietary process, this steel offers
toughness, high wear resistance and great corrosion resistance.
Crucible
has a unique process that allows higher alloy contents of
key elements like Vanadium to be added, and yet provides an
incredibly
fine grain size to be maintained. These two factors assure
high wear resistance and increased toughness. The 4% Vanadium
creates
Vanadium Carbide, the second hardest carbide in existence,
and in doing so frees up the Chromium so it can resist
corrosion. The technology is incredible. CPMS30V is an ideal
choice for tough use knives where corrosion resistance is important.
This makes it my #1 steel for folding
knives, and utility knives where low maintenance is desired.
My preferred heat treatment for this steel includes three
tempers and a cryogenic treatment that results in a final hardness
of
Rc59/60. Oh, and I can make this steel scary sharp, too.
- BG42 is a superior, ball bearing grade stainless steel. It's
made in the USA by Latrobe Steel, and it is similar in composition
to CPMS30V, but with less Vanadium. It takes a higher polish
than S30V, but doesn’t have the performance of S30V, and
so I use it mostly on fancier knives where appearance is paramount.
It’s not available in many stock sizes, either, so
it is limited in that respect as well. I should mention that
BG-42
requires a complex heat treatment process at temperatures
that are beyond the capability of many knifemakers who do
their own
heat treatment.
- CPM3V is the toughest high-alloy knife steel I have ever
seen. Basically a particle metallurgy A2 steel, with added
Vanadium,
this alloy is the perfect choice for large knives subject
to impact during use-Camp knives, bushwhackers, etc. I have actually
bent CPM3V blades at Rc58!!! It’s not stainless, but,
because it has 7.5% Chromium it is still a relatively low
maintenance
steel
- A2 is an extremely tough, fine grained tool steel. I like this
steel for my chisel ground, Japanese knives at a hardness
of Rc 60. A2 takes an extremely keen edge, and holds it well. It's
high toughness makes it suitable for knives that are going
to take impact and bending. A2 will stain if exposed to the elements,
which is why all my Japanese knives have wood lined sheaths.
The wood retains penetrating oil (Tuf Glide) and protects
the blade. A2 is also easy to sharpen and maintain for the average
user, which is important if you use your knives hard.
- CPMS90V The hands down winner for the most wear resistant stainless.
Also, the hardest steel to finish. If you need a steel that
will stay sharp during normal use, and you need high corrosion resistance,
this is a great choice. Kitchen and fillet knives are simply
fantastic candidates for this alloy.
You will notice that I don't offer ATS-34 as a standard blade
material. Simply put, I have not found it to make a great blade.
It has rusted on me, and reveals impurities during polishing.
And it isn't made in this country. Metallurgically, I think
it's mediocre (no Vanadium).
Remember, you don't need to be a steel expert. That's my job
! You do need to decide WHERE, HOW and FOR WHAT PURPOSE you want
to use your knife. If you tell me this, I'll give you the best
steel possible for YOU.
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What are the benefits of blade coatings?
Blade coatings provide some nice options in a tactical knife.
I offer Black Epoxy Powder coating applied electrostatically
and then baked to a durable finish.
This coating offer some TACTICAL advantages:
It eliminates reflection, and colors a blade black.
It greatly increases corrosion resistance of tool steels.
Where possible, you will find screw on handles on my fixed blade
knives with coated blades. This way, if you damage the coating
during extreme use, you can simply unscrew the handle scales,
and have the blade re-coated.
Coated blades can, and will, scratch with hard use. Even so,
they are of great benefit.
I do not offer coated blades on Japanese style knives.
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What are the characteristics of a superior knife?
Actually, no one has ever asked me that question, probably because
most people think they know the answer! But, I think it's a good
question. It's not easy to answer briefly, but I'll try. A superior
knife will:
-Balance at the correct point for the cutting motions consistent
with the knife's intended use.
-Feel good in the hand, in a variety of positions, after extended
use. (sharp corners are OUT, ergonomics are IN)
-Be "lively" in the hand. You'll want to go cut something.
This is a VERY subtle point, that results from design, execution,
balance, etc. When you pick up your first "lively knife",
you will understand. You will want to buy it, and you'll LOVE
to use it!
-Cut and cut and cut and cut!! Yes, people, that is why you are
buying a custom knife, isn't it? Sharp is what it's all about
for me. I believe that examining the edge of a finished knife
is an excellent way to evaluate the character of the maker. If
it’s not SCARY SHARP, it’s not superior.
A superior knife must be meticulously made, hopefully by someone
who is continually striving to make their knives better.
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What defines a "Tactical" Knife?
I
used to think that "tactical knives" were just knives
with Bead blast finishes and Black Micarta Handles. I was so
wrong! A truly "Tactical" knife is a masterpiece of
form and function, disguised in a plain brown wrapper. What makes
a tactical knife beautiful is how well it works. If it's really
Tactical, it has:
-A highly efficient, compact design that balances strength, weight
and speed of deployment and use.
-An ergonomic handle, usually slim, that offers a secure grip,
in a variety of grip positions, and protects the fingers from
slipping onto the blade. Oil, blood, mud, petroleum products
and water must not affect the grip.
-The ability to take abuse, withstand environmental extremes,
and keep cutting.
-A carry system (more than just a sheath!) that makes the knife
accessible from a concealed position, quickly, and quietly. A
good sheath should provide multiple carry options.
Many so called "Tactical" knives seem to fall short
of excellence in the functionality department. They look good,
but that's about it. I try to design a tactical knife the way
I design a structural part for a helicopter-get the job done,
simply and efficiently, with function as the main goal. A really
good tactical knife might not win any beauty contests, but it
will be AWESOME to use!! The phrase "A wolf in sheep's clothing" comes
to mind....
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How do you heat treat your blades?
The
most exciting and important step in the making of a custom knife
is the heat treatment. While some makers rely on outside
sources for heat treatment of their blades, I choose to perform
this critical function myself. I have almost $10,000 invested
in state-of-the-art heat treating equipment, the centerpiece
being a Cress C1228 digitally controlled furnace that is accurate
to a mind-boggling ¼ of 1%. That’s just 5 degrees
Farenheit at 2000F. Because I use only air hardening steels,
I can use a technique called press quenching, whereby blades
wrapped in special hi-temperature stainless foil are quenched
between thick plates of precision machined Aluminum. This quench
is faster than that obtained in a positive pressure vacuum furnace,
and has the added advantage of keeping the blades perfectly flat.
All my heat treat cycles are monitored electronically and manually,
and I calibrate all my equipment to assure consistency. I use
only the highest quality SS tool wrap foil, paying nearly twice
the price per roll to obtain the best product. Remember, I am
a Materials Engineer, and when it comes to heat treatment, I
think it is fair to say that I am smarter than the average bear!!
I employ three tempers and a cryogenic treatment using liquid
Nitrogen to assure the highest possible level of Martensitic
transformation.
I own and use a Rockwell Hardness testing machine, and all my
blades will continue to be 100% tested.
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Are your knives guaranteed?
Yes, for life, for the original owner, for as long as I am able
to work. Natural materials are not guaranteed, because they are
subject to a variety of natural processes (aging, shrinkage,
warpage) that I am not able to control. I will replace natural
materials for a reasonable fee. Damage due to obvious abuse isn't
covered-please respect the limits of your tools and, don't use
a knife when you need a screwdriver or a prybar, unless it's
an emergency!! Now, I'm not a lawyer, and don't believe they
need to be involved here! Use your head when you use your knife,
and, it'll hold up just fine!!
Resharpening is FREE, as long as you send me $20 which covers
return postage/insurance. I'm a voting member of the Knifemaker's
Guild, and I am here to stay!
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What is your personal philosophy about Knifemaking?
For me, it’s all about quality. I use the highest level of technology available-If
I don’t have it, I obtain it and learn how to use it. My CNC is a perfect
example of this. I have invested thousands of dollars on this technology have
invested thousands of hours mastering it’s use. Why? To achieve levels
of PRECISION and REPEATABILITY that the other guys can’t match. My folders
are actually pressed together. There is no play, no slop and no variability.
But machines can’t do the things that make a knife beautiful. I have over
25 years of practice and experience that I put into every blade I grind and every
handle I shape.
If you want to know how my philosophy works, just feel the edge on one of my
knives. It’s not just sharp….It’s SCARY SHARP.
Nothing less will do.
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How should I sharpen my RJ Martin Knife?
If you require the original,
Scary Sharp edge that your knife originally had, I offer free
re-sharpening. You may
send the knife to my shop:
RJ Martin Design, Inc.
51 Bramblewood St.
Bridgewater, MA 02324
Please enclose $20 to cover return 2 day FEDEX and insurance.
For fastest service, specify a shipping address that FEDEX will
deliver to. Turnaround is usually within 48 hours.
If your knife
needs some clean-up to remove scratches, etc. indicate that you
want it done and add $5-I’ll do my best
to restore it to its original condition.
If you want to sharpen
your knife at home, I recommend the Spyderco Sharpmaker system.
It’s foolproof and will work well on
all the steels I use. I recommend starting with the finest rods-If
that doesn’t restore the edge quickly, then go to the medium
rods and finish off with the fine rods. Stropping the edge on
the back of a leather belt is recommended as the final step.
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Should I lubricate my RJ Martin folding knife?
Lubrication is generally not required, and can cause the locking
bar to stick during lock-up.
If you carry your knife regularly, you’ll want to clean
it periodically. I recommend the following:
Use Fantastic(yellow bottle-lemon) or Formula 409(white bottle-no
bleach) pump spray at close range to blast clean all surfaces
of the knife. Do this outside or over a garbage can, because
it’s messy. Open the knife and repeat. If you nave access
to an air compressor, blow out the knife thoroughly. Close the
blade and blow off the tang thoroughly.
If you don’t have a compressor, close the blade and wrap
the knife in a paper towel and shake it, then wipe it dry..
After cleaning, the action should be smooth.
If your folder has
a black stop pin, a bit of Tuf Glide should be applied to it
with a Q-tip.
If you just have to lubricate the
pivot, use a toothpick to apply 1small drop of WD-40 to each
washer. If you get oil on
the tang, use a Q-tip with acetone to remove all of it from the
tang and locking bar.
BTW, if you clean your knife as I recommend,
disassembly (blade removal) is seldom required.
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What does the “RJ” in RJ Martin stand for?
My full name is Randall James Martin, but I prefer
to be called RJ.
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